Avangard sanat akımları ve tasarım yaklaşımları bağlamında çağdaş ayakkabı tasarımı
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Tarih
2024-05-20
Yazarlar
Dergi Başlığı
Dergi ISSN
Cilt Başlığı
Yayıncı
Işık Üniversitesi, Lisansüstü Eğitim Enstitüsü
Erişim Hakkı
info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess
Özet
Tez çalışmasının amacı; avangard sanat akımları ve tasarım yaklaşımlarının, çağımızda ayakkabı tasarımına etkilerinin incelenmesidir. 19. yüzyıldan itibaren sanat alanında etkin olan avangard kavramı; toplumsal yapının ilerisinde olmayı, öncülüğü, statükoya karşı bir duruşu temsil eden radikal bir paradigmadır. Moda ile sanatın yolları zaman zaman kesişerek sınırları belirsizleşmektedir. Başka bir deyişle; avangard sanatın yansımaları moda evreninde görülmektedir. Ayakkabı tasarımı ise; binlerce yıldır, kültür, moda, teknoloji, ekonomi evrenlerindeki gelişmeler sonucu bireysel ve toplumsal ihtiyaçlar, beklentiler doğrultusunda güncellenen ikonik ürünlerin tasarlandığı bir alandır. Çalışmada yorumlayıcı araştırma paradigması bağlamında epistemolojik bir çerçeve esas alınmıştır. Kuramsal ve pratik çalışmalara yazılı ve görsel literatür taraması ile ulaşılmıştır. Elde edilen veriler yorumlanarak amaç doğrultusunda bulgular ortaya konulmuştur. Nitel araştırma yönteminin kullanıldığı çalışmada örneklerden yola çıkılarak genellemeler yapılmıştır; tüme varım yaklaşımı benimsenmiştir. Yapılan incelemeler sonucunda; Peter Bürger’in avangard kavramı bir döneme tutsak etme yaklaşımına karşı Renato Poggioli ve Hal Foster’in perspektifleri doğrultusunda; kavram, bir sıfat olarak ele alınarak zamandan bağımsız, sanat ve tasarım çalışmalarını yönlendiren temel bir paradigma olarak kabullenilmektedir. 18. yüzyılın ortalarından itibaren yaşanan toplumsal, bilimsel, teknolojik ve ekonomik gelişmelerin tetiklediği birçok öncü sanat ve tasarım pratikleri ortaya çıkmıştır. Çalışmada bu geniş yelpazedeki avangard sanat ve tasarım yaklaşımlarından daraltılmış örnekleme yöntemi ile seçilenler incelenerek giysi ve ayakkabı modasına yansımaları araştırılmıştır. İncelemeler sonucunda; sanat ve moda tasarımı alanındaki gelişmeler, konumuz bağlamında avangard paradigmanın ayakkabı dahil giysi modasını doğrudan etkilediği açıkça görülmektedir. 21. yüzyılda aksesuarın isteğe bağlı kullanılma niteliği farkına varılarak; ayakkabının aksesuar değil giyim- kuşamın olmazsa olmaz parçalarından birisi olduğu anlaşılmıştır. Bu perspektiften konuyu ele alan moda tasarımcıları giysiler ile aynı bağlamda; form, desen, doku, renkte ayakkabılar tasarlamaktadırlar. Çalışmada yaşadığımız çağda, Avangard ve yeni ayakkabı paradigmasını yansıtan örnekler; Fütürizm, Sürrealizm, Giyilebilir Sanat, Dekonstrüktivizm, Kinetik Moda ve Biyomorfik Moda çıkışlı ayakkabı tasarımlarından seçkiler bağlamında ele alınmıştır: Fütürizm çıkışlı 3D yazıcı teknolojisi kullanılarak gerçekleştirilen ayakkabı tasarımlarında, çoğunlukla ayak formundan oldukça farklı formda ayakkabılar, iç ve dış form olmak üzere iki ana bölüm bağlamında; konvansiyonel olmayan malzeme (plastik türevleri) ve teknoloji ile üretilmektedir. Bu sanat akımı bağlamında tasarlanan diğer ayakkabılarda elektrik ve kinetik enerjinin kullanılması ile pratiğe aktarılan teknolojik uygulamalar görülmektedir. Sürrealist ayakkabı tasarımları ise özgün malzemeler ile özgün taban formları, boş- dolu, denge gibi estetik değerlere göndermeler, dengede kalma ve yürüme konusunda sınırları zorlayan formlar, ilgisiz başka imlerin ayakkabı ile bütünleştirilme uygulamaları, bilinçaltının form ve malzeme bağlamında ayakkabı tasarımına uyarlamaları dikkat çekmektedir. Sürrealizmin ayakkabı tasarımına yansımasında; tasarımcının kullanıcıyı yaşam sorunsalını duyumsaması amacıyla fiziksel olarak zorlaması ayrıca özel bir durum olarak karşımıza çıkmaktadır. Giyilebilir Sanat bağlamındaki tasarımların, konvansiyonel ve özgün malzemelerin kombinlenerek kullanılması, etnik çizgiler ile modern perspektifin harmanlanması yoluyla oluşturulmaları, üretimlerinde zanaatkarlık becerilerinin ön plana taşınması temel özelliklerini oluşturmaktadır. Diğer yandan tasarımın tek bir görünümü yerine bir hikayeyi anlatan ardışık görünümler oluşturma çabaları da oldukça öncü bir yaklaşımın ayak izlerini yansıtmaktadır. Dekonstrüktivist paradigmanın uygulandığı ayakkabı tasarımı form, malzeme ve üretim yöntemindeki ilkler ile öne çıkmaktadır. Kinetik Sanat’ tan etkilenen ayakkabı tasarımlarında, taban ve aksesuarlardaki özgün yaklaşımlar ile 3D gibi inovatif üretim teknikleri belirleyici özelliklerdir. Biyomorfik yaklaşımın ayakkabı tasarımına yansımaları; iç ve dış form uygulaması, dünya ve hayal edilen dünya dışı yaratıkların formlarından esinlenme ile insanlığın gelecekteki evrim basamaklarının yansımaları izlenmektedir. İncelenen tasarımcıların/ sanatçıların tasarım ve/ veya sanat eğitimi almış olmaları ve çağdaş ayakkabı yaklaşımı; sanat ile ortak alanlar oluşturan modanın, eğitim evrenine ayakkabı tasarımının eklemleneceğini işaret etmektedir. Diğer yandan başarılı tasarımcıların ve tasarım markalarının ülke ekonomisine olumlu katkı sağladığı bilinmektedir. Çalışmanın son bölümünde bu konulardaki öneriler yer almaktadır.
The purpose of the thesis study is; it is an examination of the effects of avant-garde art movements and design approaches on shoe design in our age. The concept of avant-garde, which has been active in the field of art since the 19th century; it is a radical paradigm that represents being ahead of the social structure, pioneering, and a stance against the status quo. The paths of fashion and art intersect from time to time and their boundaries become blurred. In other words; Reflections of avant-garde art can be seen in the fashion universe. Shoe design is; It is an area where iconic products have been designed for thousands of years, updated in line with individual and social needs and expectations as a result of developments in the universes of culture, fashion, technology and economy. The study was based on an epistemological framework in the context of interpretive research paradigm. Theoretical and practical studies were accessed through written and visual literature review. The data obtained were interpreted and findings were presented in line with the purpose. In the study where qualitative research method was used, generalizations were made based on examples; An inductive approach was adopted. As a result of the investigations; in line with Poggioli and Foster's perspectives, against Peter Bürger's approach of keeping the avant-garde concept captive to a period; The concept is considered as an adjective and is accepted as a basic paradigm that directs art and design studies, independent of time. Many pioneering art and design practices have emerged, triggered by social, scientific, technological and economic developments since the mid-18th century. In the study, those selected from this wide range of avant-garde art and design approaches with a narrowed sampling method were examined and their reflections on clothing and shoe fashion were investigated. As a result of the investigations; developments in the field of art and fashion design, in the context of our topic, clearly show that the avant-garde paradigm directly affects clothing fashion, including shoes. Realizing the optional use of accessories in the 21st century; it has been understood that shoes are not an accessory but an indispensable part of clothing. Fashion designers who deal with the issue from this perspective design shoes in the same context as clothes, in form, pattern, texture and color. In the study, examples reflecting the avant-garde and new shoe paradigm in the age we live in; It is discussed in the context of selections from shoe designs originating from futurism, surrealism, wearable art, deconstructivism, kinetic fashion and biomorphic fashion: In shoe designs made using 3D printer technology originating from futurism, shoes are mostly in a form that is quite different from the foot form, and are divided into two main parts: inner and outer form; It is produced with non-conventional materials (plastic derivatives) and technology. In other shoes designed in the context of this art movement, technological applications put into practice with the use of electricity and kinetic energy can be seen. Surrealist shoe designs, on the other hand, draw attention with original materials and original sole forms, references to aesthetic values such as emptyfull and balance, forms that push the boundaries of balance and walking, applications of integrating other irrelevant signs into the shoe, and adaptations to shoe design in the context of form and material of the subconscious. In the context of the influence of surrealism on shoe design; it is also a special case that the designer physically forces the user to feel the problematic of life. The main features of designs in the context of wearable art are the combination of conventional and original materials, their creation by blending ethnic lines with modern perspective, and the emphasis on craftsmanship skills in their production. On the other hand, efforts to create successive views that tell a story rather than a single view of the design also reflect the footprints of a very pioneering approach. Shoe design, where the deconstructivist paradigm is applied, stands out with its firsts in form, material and production method. Original approaches in soles and accessories and innovative production techniques such as 3D are the determining features of shoe designs influenced by kinetic art. Reflections of the biomorphic approach on shoe design; with the application of interior and exterior forms, inspired by the forms of the world and imagined extraterrestrial creatures, reflections of the future evolution stages of humanity are observed. The designers/artists examined must have received design and/or art education and their contemporary shoe approach; It indicates that fashion, which creates common areas with art, will add shoe design to the education universe. On the other hand, it is known that successful designers and design brands contribute positively to the country's economy. The last part of the study includes suggestions on these issues.
The purpose of the thesis study is; it is an examination of the effects of avant-garde art movements and design approaches on shoe design in our age. The concept of avant-garde, which has been active in the field of art since the 19th century; it is a radical paradigm that represents being ahead of the social structure, pioneering, and a stance against the status quo. The paths of fashion and art intersect from time to time and their boundaries become blurred. In other words; Reflections of avant-garde art can be seen in the fashion universe. Shoe design is; It is an area where iconic products have been designed for thousands of years, updated in line with individual and social needs and expectations as a result of developments in the universes of culture, fashion, technology and economy. The study was based on an epistemological framework in the context of interpretive research paradigm. Theoretical and practical studies were accessed through written and visual literature review. The data obtained were interpreted and findings were presented in line with the purpose. In the study where qualitative research method was used, generalizations were made based on examples; An inductive approach was adopted. As a result of the investigations; in line with Poggioli and Foster's perspectives, against Peter Bürger's approach of keeping the avant-garde concept captive to a period; The concept is considered as an adjective and is accepted as a basic paradigm that directs art and design studies, independent of time. Many pioneering art and design practices have emerged, triggered by social, scientific, technological and economic developments since the mid-18th century. In the study, those selected from this wide range of avant-garde art and design approaches with a narrowed sampling method were examined and their reflections on clothing and shoe fashion were investigated. As a result of the investigations; developments in the field of art and fashion design, in the context of our topic, clearly show that the avant-garde paradigm directly affects clothing fashion, including shoes. Realizing the optional use of accessories in the 21st century; it has been understood that shoes are not an accessory but an indispensable part of clothing. Fashion designers who deal with the issue from this perspective design shoes in the same context as clothes, in form, pattern, texture and color. In the study, examples reflecting the avant-garde and new shoe paradigm in the age we live in; It is discussed in the context of selections from shoe designs originating from futurism, surrealism, wearable art, deconstructivism, kinetic fashion and biomorphic fashion: In shoe designs made using 3D printer technology originating from futurism, shoes are mostly in a form that is quite different from the foot form, and are divided into two main parts: inner and outer form; It is produced with non-conventional materials (plastic derivatives) and technology. In other shoes designed in the context of this art movement, technological applications put into practice with the use of electricity and kinetic energy can be seen. Surrealist shoe designs, on the other hand, draw attention with original materials and original sole forms, references to aesthetic values such as emptyfull and balance, forms that push the boundaries of balance and walking, applications of integrating other irrelevant signs into the shoe, and adaptations to shoe design in the context of form and material of the subconscious. In the context of the influence of surrealism on shoe design; it is also a special case that the designer physically forces the user to feel the problematic of life. The main features of designs in the context of wearable art are the combination of conventional and original materials, their creation by blending ethnic lines with modern perspective, and the emphasis on craftsmanship skills in their production. On the other hand, efforts to create successive views that tell a story rather than a single view of the design also reflect the footprints of a very pioneering approach. Shoe design, where the deconstructivist paradigm is applied, stands out with its firsts in form, material and production method. Original approaches in soles and accessories and innovative production techniques such as 3D are the determining features of shoe designs influenced by kinetic art. Reflections of the biomorphic approach on shoe design; with the application of interior and exterior forms, inspired by the forms of the world and imagined extraterrestrial creatures, reflections of the future evolution stages of humanity are observed. The designers/artists examined must have received design and/or art education and their contemporary shoe approach; It indicates that fashion, which creates common areas with art, will add shoe design to the education universe. On the other hand, it is known that successful designers and design brands contribute positively to the country's economy. The last part of the study includes suggestions on these issues.
Açıklama
Text in Turkish ; Abstract: Turkish and English
Includes bibliographical references (leaves 226-245)
xx, 246 leaves
Includes bibliographical references (leaves 226-245)
xx, 246 leaves
Anahtar Kelimeler
Ayakkabı tasarımı, Avangard, Moda tasarımı, Ayakkabı modası, Shoe design, Avant- Garde, Fashion design, Fashion of shoe
Kaynak
WoS Q Değeri
Scopus Q Değeri
Cilt
Sayı
Künye
Kastan, C. (2024). Avangard sanat akımları ve tasarım yaklaşımları bağlamında çağdaş ayakkabı tasarımı. İstanbul: Işık Üniversitesi Lisansüstü Eğitim Enstitüsü.
